Yolinda Washington's lifelong
dandruff problem has been embarrassing, she said. "You want people
to look at you, not your scalp."
She used to have her hair washed weekly at a salon. Between visits,
she oiled her scalp daily. But nothing could rid her of the scaly
white flakes that sat sometimes visibly on her scalp or shoulders.
She saw a brochure a few weeks ago on a study that aims to help
black women who wrestle with dandruff. She joined a study under way
at St. Louis University.
"Dandruff is a nuisance and affects people's lifestyles," said Dr.
Jeaneen Chappell, a researcher and resident in dermatology at St.
Louis University School of Medicine. "Social and economic
ramifications can be great for individuals. It's not going to kill
you, but it affects how you deal with other people, the clothes you
wear, your confidence."
Chappell believes she has found a way to fight black women's
dandruff, despite the unique issues they face.
"African-American hair is drier and doesn't produce as much oil as
other races," Chappell said, "and it tends to be brittle and break
if you wash it too often."
Many black women get their hair chemically relaxed and
professionally styled. So they may only have their hair washed
during a salon visit, Chappell said, which can be every two weeks.
She suspects a foam remedy already available may be better suited
for black women's hair than dandruff shampoos.
If she presents proof, more doctors may prescribe the foam rather
than shampoos.
Dandruff is among the top reasons why black women visit
dermatologists, Chappell said.
"I was noticing women coming to the office who were getting
(dandruff) shampoo, weren't adhering to prescribing practices," she
said. "The No. 1 reason was they didn't want to wash their hair as
often as I was prescribing."
"Anything that makes the hair wet and ruins the style is something
that black women won't cooperate with. People don't appreciate the
amount of time it takes to care for the hair."
She added. "Straightening takes two to three hours, in addition to
styling. No one wants to do that two or three times a week."
The issue isn't about clean hair, she said. "African-American women
don't have dandruff because they don't wash their hair," Chappell
said. "It's because they don't want to use the most common
treatments."
Dandruff is caused primarily by a fungus called malassezia, Chappell
said. All adults have it, but some people are more sensitive to it;
also, it's often intensified by hormonal, genetic or neurological
conditions.
Chappell said the foam treatment uses the same dandruff-fighting
ingredient — ketoconazole, an anti-fungal medicine approved by the
U.S. Food and Drug Administration — as the shampoo. The foam does
not require patients to wash their hair, the doctor said.
Thus, the study. "I'm trying to meet these women where they are,
with something that won't disrupt their lifestyles," Chappell said.
The study divides 100 women into two groups, one using shampoo and
the other foam.
Washington got the shampoo. But in agreeing to use it, she must wash
her hair three times a week.
Her dandruff has improved, she said, but she has had to change her
styling habits.
"So I take care of it myself, flat-iron it when I have to,"
Washington said.
She's considering a new hairstyle, possibly returning to a natural
style that doesn't require chemicals.
"I have to give some thought to that," she said. "That's a big
change."
The title of the study is "Seborrheic Dermatitis of the Scalp in
Populations Practicing Less Frequent Hair Washing."
Women who sign up will participate individually for four to eight
weeks, Chappell said.
Participants must be African-American women ages 18 to 89 who wash
their hair once a week, or less, and have a problem with dandruff.
Supplies will be furnished by SLU.
Everyone in the study will receive one of the two treatments.
Participants who receive shampoo and do not see improvement in their
dandruff will be offered foam at the end of the treatment period.
So far, 12 women are in the study.
To learn more about the study or to volunteer, call St. Louis
University at 314-256-3439.
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